Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Zell Am See - A senior hiker on Austrian Alps (2)

 <From Salzburg to Zell Am See>

 On a train down to Zell Am See from Salzburg, I sat next to an old lady. There were few people in the car and as she was so friendly that we started to talk at once. But soon we came to realize that it was not an easy task for us to continue chatting between German and English. Just avoiding uneasy silence of nearly two hours until we both reached Zell, I got an idea to use a translation tool on my smart phone, which I had never used before. I put an English sentence into this device and showed her its translation result in German, and she put a German word in her turn. Thus we spent a pretty good time, but I was puzzled by her remark on cows when I told her that I was going to hike on Austrian Alps. It was not until the very next day when I met a herd of cattle grazing on my way at a high altitude near the Schmittenhohe summit, I realized that not only hikers but also cows liked to spend a good time on high altitude in summer time. Zell Am See is a small town by the lake surrounded by mountains and provides good access to diverse hiking trails, which allow people with different levels of experience and physical strength to enjoy hiking according to their own tastes. I went to the tourist information center at first and got a very practical hiking map and useful tips on choosing my next day's hike. 


                   
  

<Schmittenhohe - 4 LAKE HIKING>
  In the next morning, I rode up on the lift to Schmittenhohe and from there walked along the trail No.50 dubbed as “4 LAKE HIKING”, which was one of the recommended routes for a hiker with some experience by the city's simple hiking guide.  Starting the Schmittenhohe top with the height of around 2000 meter, I could easily trail the path per guideposts. It was a really nice walking, breathing in cool mountain air and having a great view of Austrian alpine scenery on a sunny summer holiday.  


              


              

<Kitzsteinhorn - Gipfelwelt 3000>
 In the afternoon after 4 LAKE HIKING, I descended to Zell and headed for Kaplan on a local bus to see Kitzsteinhorn glacier and have a panorama view from Gipfelwelt 3000 lookout.  
  
              


              

 While planing in Japan, I was thinking about taking part in a guided tour to the Kitzsteinhorn summit (3,203m altitude) led by a state qualified alpinist. But this requires the ascent of 200 meter altitude being fastened to a rope with other climbers and I was not so sure of it, so abandoned this idea. Instead, I just changed to a different lift up three times, which took me to 3,000 meter altitude so easily in less than 50 minutes. At the top, I walked down to an ice field, excited with the cool touch of summer snow under the strong summer sunshine just as kids playing with sleighs. Back to the Gipefelwelt 3000 lookout, I enjoyed the magnificent view of mountains in the Hohe Tauern National Park.      

<Pinzgauer Spaziergang>
 This hiking trail also starts from the top of Schmittenhohe lift and stretches along the mountain ridge of Kitzbühel Alps to Saalbach. It requires 6 hours of pure walk, all-day hike so that good physical condition and strength is a must. But the guide book stresses this hike as one of the most beautiful high trails in the eastern Alps with magnificent views of the Kitzbühel Alps and Hohe Tauern range. 
  I met a senior hiker from London at the pension. He also came alone to challenge this route to celebrate his 61 years birthday. But on the next day while chatting, he persuaded me not to take this route as he had been forced to retreat somewhere on the way due to the long walk under the heated sun, saying that it would be very tough for a senior lonely hiker like him and me. Anywhere I decided to go on this trail as far as I could.


           


           

  Around two hours walking from Schmittenhohe, I encountered a senior German hiker returning from the opposite direction and we talked for about one hour, considerably long time for a hiking rest, siting on rocks under the shadow of trees. He started earlier with a tour group, but decided to return to Schmittenhohe. He was of almost same age as me, we felt some familiar feeling each other. He had experiences to visit Japan several times as a chemical company's engineer before retirement, saying he knew some people of the Japanese chemical company which I'm currently working for. Walking alone on a desolate trail makes sometimes a lonely hiker talkative.


           

 30 minutes after waving good-by with him, I reached the mountain hut dubbed "Hochsonnberg Alm"  situated at 1841m altitude. This hut welcomes hikers with a menu of specialties and a magnificent view of snow-capped Kitzsteinhorn mountains. Instead of a beer, I ordered a juice, a kind of lemonade, which looked like just water, but tasted subtly sweet and very refreshing. The master said they made this with mountain cool water and asked me how I liked it. It was certainly the most refreshing juice I ever had drunk.   


          

             

 A gently sloping uphill from the hut took me to the saddle point called Rohrertori, where there were no human beings but cattle and horses grazing peacefully and some of them took a suspicious glance at me when I passed by. But this was just the entrance of a maze that made me losing my way. There was certainly a guidepost that might have indicated the right way, but it was written in German with an unfamiliar place name. I tried to make a detour not to interrupt those cattle and horses grazing. I continued to walk on for more than one hour until I found it was not the right way to Saalbach. On this Alm, I learned that broader trails are for those cows and hikers should choose rather narrow roads. When back to Rohrertori, I lost two hours and decided to return to where I came from just as my two fellow colleagues.      

<Kaiser Franz Joseph Hohe>
 On the 4th day in Zell Am See, I joined in the bus tour to Kaiser Franz Joseph Hohe conducted by National Park Rangers. I had been wondering whether I should rent a car to go there, but Ms. Mondre of the pension looked for a nice bus tour and made a booking for me. It was very economical because of its discounted fee of 22euro thanks to a Zell Am See Card and also eco-friendly. I got in the bus at 9:00 at Zell and a park ranger started to explain us in English about the today's tour and the nature of the Hohe Tauern National Park. The bus drove on the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, one of Europe’s greatest alpine road,which connects Bruck and Kaiser-Franz-Joseph-Höhe (2369m), 48 kilometers long with its 36 hairpin curves and a splendid view of glacier mountains.


          

 Our first bus stop was the Alpine Nature Show Museum at an altitude of 2260 meters above sea level, which highlighted its local mineral and flora exhibition. From the nearby lookout, I enjoyed the scenic view of glaciated peaks including 3564m Grosses Wiesbachhorn. 


          

 At 12 o'clock the bus arrived at Kaiser Franz Joseph Hohe Visitor Center (2369m). I followed our park ranger to the crystalline Wilhelm-Swarovski observatory, listening his explanation about the area's fauna, rapidly retreating
Pasterze Glacier and climbing route to the top of Mt. Grossglockner; "The Grossglockner is the Austria's highest mountain, 3, 798 meters high above sea level with the longest glacier in the eastern Alps, the Pasterzeand. You can see lovely marmots socializing each other near the center and if you are lucky enough, the mighty ibex might loom up in the fog." But looking at the retreating glacier made me realize how the global warming has presented itself as a real threat to human beings.  


         

         

 We had two hours to explore the site before 14 pm, the departure time of bus. I took a lunch at a restaurant with a great view of Grossglockner behind the back of ibex statue, ordering "Leberkase", fried egg with potato salad for 9.8 euro and 0.3L draft beer for 3.2 euro. In return, our bus descended the same zigzag road back to Zell and stopped in a half hour at Fuscher Lake (2262m) for a short coffee break. The lake was calm with the sound of melting snow flowing into it and reflecting the surrounded mountains images. On the road side, people gathered to see a marmot coiling around the neck of his master.  


         
   
 The Grossglockner High Alpine Road had been constructed between 1930 and 1935, during the Great Depression, around 80 years later after the visit by the Emperor Franz Joseph. Although the construction was motivated by the people's anticipation toward the opening of motorized tourism, they are also eager to protect the area's natural environment. The local people advised me not to use rent-a-car, but recommended me to take part in a bus trip. I heard the touring bus was launched in 2012 for sustainability reasons as well as offering an easy access to the region's unique natural beauty. 

  (to be continued; next "Lienz") 

The other blogs related to "A senior hiker on Austrian Alps"
1. "Mt. Schafberg from Salzburg" posted on Aug. 4, 2015      






Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Mt. Schafberg - A senior hiker on Austrian Alps (1)

Why Austrian Alps?
  ♪♪♪---  “The hills are alive, With the sound of music ---“
This is the opening song sung by Julie Andrews as Maria in the film “Sound of Music” with the overwhelming pristine alpine meadow catching our eyes. Many of my friends were enchanted by Julie Andrews, the Trap family's lovely children and the romantic mountain scenery when we were young. The Austrian Alps seemed to promise me ideal hiking opportunities with fascinating landscapes and well organized hiking trails at varying altitudes and levels of difficulty.  

  So I decided to go hiking on Austrian Alps for this summer vacation.
I had traveled in Austria for two weeks from July 9 to 22, 2015, visiting Salzburg, Zell Am See, and Lienz with Vienna but just as a transit from/to Tokyo, Japan. Both Zell Am See and Lienz are small country towns surrounded by mountains, providing a good access to the Hohe Tauern National Park, the largest nature reserve in Central Europe with an area of over 1,834 km2.

 <Zell Am See>                                             <Lienz>    
         


Mt. Schafberg in the Sazlzkammergut
  On the 3rd day in Salzburg, I went to Mt. Schafberg, 1783m high in the Sazlzkammergut, where the old cog trains are going up and down between the summit and St. Wolfgang, a small town at the shore of Wolfgangsee Lake. This cog train is also shot in the picnic scene of the cinema “Sound of Music”.
 I took the public Postbus No.5 from Salzburg central bus station to St. Gilgen, where I got a round trip ticket for the summit of Mt. Schafberg, including the rides on ferry boats to St. Wolfgang and on the cog trains. 
  
<St. Gilgen>                                              <Wolfgang lake>   
    

 St. Gilgen is located 25 km east of Salzburg and well known for the home of Mozart's grandfather where his mother was born. The above photo in the right side shows this house, which stood just next to the ferry port. The ferry boat took me to St. Wolfgang in less than one hour, where I changed to a cog train connecting between the summit of Mt. Schafberg and the shore. 


       

 The Salzkammergut area called as Lake District is comprised of 76 lakes surrounded by numerous mountains with the height of around 2000 m. The name Salzkammergut comes from "Estate of the Salt Chamber" and the salt had formed the basis of the prosperity of this region along with Salzburg from the prehistoric era through the Hapsburg Monarchy to the middle of the 20th century. 


   

On the summit I found a nice restaurant and enjoyed beer, having great views of the surrounding mountains and lakes. It was a rare experience for me to drink a glass of beer on the top of mountains with no care to further effort to walk, just relaxing until the designated cog train down to the lake would leave the summit station. 

(to be continued; next "Zell Am See") 


Saturday, February 28, 2015

Delicious Pizza in Hokkaido

 On the final day of our four days touring in Hokkaido, it had been raining insistently from the early morning. We had been wondering inside the lodge about where we should have a good time before boarding an airplane back to Tokyo departing Asahikawa airport at 19:35 pm

  As we had not expected that it would rain, it took us some time, looking at the maps and discussing on several options for a considerable time, until we finally decided to drive south back to Furano to taste delicious local cheese and pizza at the Furano Cheese Factory. From our lodge in Higashi-kagura forest near Asahikawa city, we drove through the country roads in the autumn gentle rain dripping to reach the site for just one and a half hour.


     

 It was a pleasant and quite place. They produce 5 different kinds of original cheeses including the wine cheddar co-developed with Rakunou Gakuen University in 1982, as well as various dairy products such as Nailao ("奶酪"), an old Chinese court sweet, all which we can buy at its souvenir shop. Visitors can also observe the cheese making process. At lunch we ate the big genuine Neapolitan pizzas with full use of its original mozzarella cheese and local fresh products baked on the firewood cooking stove that they imported from Nepali, where the chief chef learned making pizza process. I was surprised to see that my ladies, my wife and the elder son's wife, not satisfied enough, further insisted to taste its original fresh ice-creams too, as I know they are always cautious not to be fat.   


      
  

Friday, February 13, 2015

Asahi-dake in Hokkaido

 Last October 2014, just one month after my lonely Oregon touring, I traveled Hokkaido, northern main island of Japan, this time together with my wife and my eldest son’s family. They have a kid of less than two years. My wife usually prefers to relax herself at home, not interested so much in holidays getaway. Furthermore she does not have much trust in me when it comes to driving, although she has no driver’s license herself. But when I returned from Oregon, US, she unexpectedly proposed to travel to Hokkaido if we could make a driving tour together with our grandson. 

 We took an early flight for Chitose airport, which departed Haneda at 6:25 in the morning. After landing, we rushed into a rent-a-car shop and started the four days tour; for the 1st day from Chitose to Sapporo thru Lake Shikotsu , on the 2nd day we drove through Furano to Asahikawa, and on the 3rd and 4th days we had based on a country-style lodge in Higashi-Kagura Forest,visiting Asahiyama zoo and Furano Cheese factory.

Mt. Asahi-dake
 For me Mt. Asahi-dake was the most memorable site. More than 40 years ago when I was a university student, I was heading to this mountain, as a final destination, with my trekking club friends. We were traversing the Daisetsu Mountain Range lying in the center of Hokkaido from Mt. Tokachi-dake through Mt. Tomuraushi. We had a small accident in boiling water for a morning meal in the tent, which injured our friend's leg seriously so that we gave up to continue the trekking just before reaching to Mt. Asahi-dake. Mt. Tomuraushi, among others, has been my most favorite mountain in Japan since then, so grandiose, quite, and beautiful with full of alpine plants. We needed to be only cautious not to surprise the local inhabitants of big brown bears with a  weight of more than 300 kgBut I have been wondering how Mt. Asahi-dake, the highest in the range, looks like which we had missed to meet at that time.          


Now 40 years later,  I rode up on tramway to Sugatami Pond station with my family. We did not climb to the top of the mountain, the highest in the region with 2,291 meters above sea level. It was still covered with ever lasting snow and presented itself really awesome. I thought it deserved to be called a tycoon of Daisetsu Mountain Range, which literally means “the Big Snow Mountains”.


  






 

Thursday, January 15, 2015

Tokyo station celebrates the 100th anniversary. (3)

The South and North domes

Tokyo vs Amsterdam station building
More than ten years earlier before Tatsuno began to tackle the design of Tokyo station, Amsterdam Central Station was opened to the public in 1889. A guide book describes the architecture of this red-brick building with a magnificent facade as Neo-Renaissance style full of Gothic characteristics. This architectural expression reminds me of that of Tokyo station. I know nothing about architectural matters, but experts rejected the idea that Tatsuno was influenced by this preceding monument in his design of Tokyo station. To me the Amsterdam looks more majestic with a facade guarded by the two tall and rectangular turrets like in a palace, while Tokyo station gives me a kind of more modest atmosphere with the two octagonal domes in the South and North wings like in a church. It seems to me that Tatsuno had tried to harmonize a western Renaissance style with the traditional Japanese aesthetic appreciation. 


      

Interior of Octagonal domes
 Now we walk into these two octagonal domes capping the modest three stories building. These domes, which had been patched up with the damaged third floor cut down to the two stories building by the postwar reconstruction work, were restored to the Tatsuno’s original design in 2012 through the five years preservation and renovation project. The exterior of doom roofs and its interior space above the third floor were completely renovated. The interior of each dome is ornamented identically. At the vaulted ceiling inside of the dome, we will notice eight eagles positioned in the octagonal corners and also eight zodiac sign sculptures arranged on the dome’s wall according to the directions. The missing four zodiac animals are Rat (north), Rabbit (east), Horse (south), and Rooster (west). Interestingly these four missing reliefs of zodiac animals were found more recently on the four corners of the ceilings of another Tatsuno's building which he designed for his home Saga prefecture after Tokyo station. There are other  interesting ornaments like keystone of samurai warrior’s helmet and Relief of flowers or sword found on the ceiling through the wall of third floor.

     

Tokyo station hotel
The hotel has been residing in Tokyo station Marunouchi building for a century. It began business in 1915, just the next year after the opening of station and had been also renovated during 2007 - 2012. Last November I had a privilege thanks to my friend to make a tour inside this hotel, seeing a luxurious banquet hall and the most expensive Royal Suite on the third floor featuring an awesome view of the Imperial Palace. It preserves classical decencies with relaxing atmosphere as well as various conveniences required to a modern accommodation. The Japanese Novel prize awarded novelist Yasunari Kawabata is known for his frequent stay in this hotel to write a novel.  


     

A city becomes more and more modernized in this rapid world with commercial buildings competing its height with each other to look down smaller pedestrians walking on streets, and people want more convenience and speed in the capitalized economy with faster bullet trains taking us to a once remote place in a shorter time. But sometimes we want to indulge ourselves in a nostalgic landscape and think about our past quietly. Tokyo station Marunouchi-side seems to symbolize the people's desire to preserve and harmonize the old culture with the modern technological requirements.


      


(The End of "Tokyo station celebrates the 100th anniversary".)

Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Tokyo station celebrates the 100th anniversary. (2)

History of Tokyo Station
Central station initiative (1889 - )
Tokyo station was first called “the Central station” around the time when the Tokyo governor issued the order in 1889 to construct an elevated city railway line to connect Shinbashi with Ueno terminal and establish a central station in the middle between them. Shinbashi station was the gateway to the western parts of Japan, Osaka and Kyoto through Tokaido-line, while Ueno was the starting point for Tohoku region, the northern part of Japan. 

In early stage of construction (1890 – 1905)
In its early stage of construction, the two German engineers, Hermann Rumshottel and Franz Baltzer, were involved in the initial survey and designed the basic layout of the building. But the central station initiative had not progressed significantly because of the two wars that broke out between Japan and China, the Sino-Japanese War in 1894-5 and then Russia, the Russo-Japanese War in 1904-5. After the two wars, people came to realize more of the importance of railway transportation to develop national prosperity and military strength. Sinpei Goto, the then Cabinet minister of Transport, was especially enthusiastic about building the most magnificent station which would astonish the world, thus letting them aware of the industrialized Japan, which had defeated both Russia and China in the wars.

Tatsuno’s Architectural style (1903 – 1908)
 The design of the Marunouchi building of Tokyo station was entrusted to Professor Kingo Tatsuno of Tokyo University in 1903, who was recognized as a pioneer of Japanese modern architecture. He studied architecture as a first-generation student of the Imperial College of Engineering under the British architect Josiah Conder and later at the University of London. His style is said to have been influenced by the Victorian style of Britain in the late 19th century. He designed a red-brick building with an iron frame characterized by granite stone stripes and the two domes that capped a three stories building in Renaissance architectural style, based on the layout plan drawn by Baltzer. Although the bricklaying architecture had prevailed in Europe, he chose to reinforce a brick building with an iron frame, considering a frequent occurrence of earthquakes in Japan. His solid architecture proved its robustness at the Great Kanto Earthquake of magnitude 7.9 in 1923 and no passengers were injured.


       
 




Opening of Tokyo station (1908 – 1914)
The construction of the Central Station finally began on March 25, 1908. It took around 6 years to complete the construction and it opened business on Dec.20, 1914. And it was officially renamed as Tokyo Station to symbolize the station at the capital of growing Japan. 

Restoration of Tokyo station (2007 - 2012)
Although Marunouchi building of the station survived the Great Kanto Earthquake, it could not escape from the massive US air raids in 1945 during the second world war, with its roof and interiors all burnt down. After the war it was reconstructed as a two-stories building. In 2007 the new project had kicked off to restore Marunouchi building to its original state as our important cultural asset. The construction consisted of mainly three parts;
   - to restore the exterior wall for the third floor 
   - to preserve the brick building frames on the 1st and 2nd floors 
   - to construct newly the 1st and 2nd basements 
The exterior wall were redressed with the face bricks that were specially fabricated to make its appearance closer to the original ones, while the interior of South and North Domes adopted a combination of the original and new design depending on each part. A new base-isolating device has been installed to make the building more resistant to bigger earthquakes. The renovation project took five and a half years with about 50 billion yen ( $430M) invested.


      

(to be continued)